Wednesday, November 23, 2016

Last

Last

     The last brooch pattern from this collection.





Bow – Tie Brooch     
© 2016 Marie McCurry

     This was written using size 20, Lizbeth thread and DMC embroidery floss (in parenthesis).  Feel free to add decorative picots and/or beads.  This brooch also would make a great pendant, bracelet or earrings.  Finished size:  1  5/8” X 7/8” (size 20 thread) and 2 ¼” X 1 ¼”  (DMC floss).

Materials:
3 – Colors of size 20, Lizbeth thread or DMC embroidery floss (use all 6-strands)
1 – Strand of gold or silver, metallic sewing thread (Coats & Clark or Sulky)
1 – 1” pin bar
4 (4) – 12/0 seed beads
2 – 2.5 mm ( 4mm) round beads
2 – 4 mm (6 mm) round beads
2 – 6 mm (8 mm) round beads
1 – 4 X 7 mm (4 X 7 mm) squatty bead
2 – Shuttles
Matching sewing thread (optional, can use the ends to sew in the beads.)
Acid-free glue   
      All tatting will be done with one strand of metallic sewing thread and one strand of size 20 thread (DMC floss). 
Step #1:
Wind 2 – shuttles, each with a different color (color 1 and color 2) and one strand of the metallic sewing thread.  Add a little more thread to color 2 shuttle.  Will use it for the “core thread” in the second step.



Letters are picot, joining points.  Red numbers are the tatting order (see diagram).
Note:  position the rings in the proper place before closing the rings.
R1 (color 1, 1):  2 – 2 – 2 – 2 – 2 – 2 – 2 – 2 – 2 – 2 – 2   (10 picots/2 ds)
R2 (color 1, 2), start at “A”:  4 – 6 – 4
R3 (color1, 3):  4 + (join to “L” picot) 4.  Position in front of R2 before closing ring. 
LJ to picot “B”.
C1 (color 2, 4):  3 ds; LJ to picot “C”
C2 (color2, 5):  3 ds; LJ to picot “D”
C3 (color 2, 6):  3 ds; LJ to picot “E”
R4 (color 1, 7):  4 – 4
R5 (color1, 8):  4 + (join to “N” picot) 6 - 4.  Position behind R4 before closing ring. 
LJ to picot “F”.
R6 (color1, 9):  4 + (join to “P” picot) 4.  Position in front of R5 before closing ring. 
LJ to picot “G”.
R7 (color2, 10):  7 - 5.  Position behind of R4 and R5 before closing ring. 
R8 (color2, 11):  5 + (join to “O/N” & “V” picot) 10 - 5.  Position in front of R7 and behind R5 before closing ring. 
R9 (color2, 12):  5 + (join to “P/Q” & “X”) 7.  Position behind R8 before closing ring.
C4 (color 2, 13):  3 ds; LJ to picot “H”
C5 (color 2, 14):  3 ds; LJ to picot “I”
C6 (color 2, 15):  3 ds; LJ to picot “J”
R10 (color1, 16):  4 + (join to “K”) 4.  Position in front of R2 before closing ring.  Cut ends, can use the ends to add the beads or use matching sewing thread.
R11 (color2, 17):  7 - 5.  Position behind of R10 and R2 before closing ring. 
R12 (color2, 18):  5 + (join to “Z/K” & “R” picot) 10 - 5.  Position in front of R11 and behind R2 before closing ring. 
R13 (color2, 19):  5 + (join to “L/M” & “T”) 7.  Position behind R13 before closing ring.  Tie ends BUT DO NOT CUT ENDS!!  This will be used as the “core thread” for step 2

Step #2:
     Continue to use the shuttle with the second color for the “core thread.”  Your working thread will be the third color and one strand of metallic thread.  Feel free to add more/less picots or seed beads.



      All chains are two double stitches with picots in between (see diagram).   Start tatting the lower, center chain:  2 – 2 – 2 – 2 – 2 – 2 (5 picots).  Lj after the three chains from Step #2 (see diagram).  Continue tatting the next chain with 5 picots, Lj, then the 7 picots, Lj, continue around.  Tie and cut ends.  You can hide the ends or use them to add the beads.


DMC on the top and size 20 thread on the bottom.

1 comment:

  1. Amazing! I'm so impressed by those of you who can design. I can't remember what I've done when I try something new, let alone try to diagram it. Thanks for sharing!

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