Gimp

Gimp

     A lucet bracelet, using the  "gimp" method.  That's adding a thread or two, in the middle or side of your cord.    I used two metallic gold threads along my bracelet.  

 

Cameo

Cameo

     I found a string of flat, round disks at the fair.  I could see all the tatting possibilities, so I had to get them.   Here is a pendant made from one of the disks.   

 

Diamond

Diamond

     This was a single, clip earring that needed a little sprucing up.  I was going to do another round, but loved the way it looked after two rounds.

 

Thread

Thread

     I found out, I don't have enough Thread Cans.  I can't seem to find some of them...must have given them away.  Need to make a few for every room and every chair.

 

Earrings

Earring

    I made the brooch pattern into a pair of beautiful earrings...these are mine!

      This pair of earrings, also won 1st place in the "Earrings," category, at the county fair.

Twist

Twist

    Same brooch with a little twist, pearls instead of seed beads.

Next

Next

3-Layered Flower Brooch         

© 2016 Marie McCurry

Beads and Terms:

    Experienced tatters can add the beads as you tat the brooch.  Beginners may want to sew them in, after your done tatting the brooch.  Feel free to substitute beads.

Step #3:

     Brooches tatted with DMC floss, the bead sizes are in parenthesis “(  )”.  Omit the top, tatted pin bar for the DMC floss, this includes the two seed beads, extending from the bar.  Any color/type of beads may be substituted.

     The black lines show the direction to sew the beads in.  Sew through the beads a few times for stability.  The ends may be used to sew in the beads or use sewing thread.

1.)  Add 6 – 6 mm (8 mm) to the “back layer”rings.  Use the BOP and TTS techniques.  Stitch this twice (see diagram).

2.)  Add 6 – 2.5 mm (4 mm) to the “middle layer” rings.  Use the BOP and TTA (use the picot joins) techniques.  Stitch this twice.

3.)   Add 1 – 6 mm (6mm) in the middle of the brooch.  Use the BOT technique and sew between the rings of the “front layer.”

4.)  For the pin bar:

a.     Use the ends to attach the R2 and R3 to the pearl tatting (*) (see diagram).  Stitch this a few times.  This strengthens and straightens the rings.

b.     Add a 3 mm bead to R1 and R4, using the BOP and TTS technique.

c.      A seed bead to connect the pin bar to the brooch (see diagram for placement) (any small bead can be substituted).

d.     Extra beads can be add to the pin bar…be creative.

Step #4:

    Sew on the pin bar.  Use the holes and ends to attach the pin bar to the brooch.  Make sure you place the pin bar above the “horizontal axis” (see diagram).  Doing so, will prevent the brooch from “flopping” forward. 

Add a drop of acid-free glue on the tatting, where the “flap” hits the tatting (see diagram).  This will prevent the tatting from wearing.  This brooch should be stiff enough, not requiring stiffener.

Pattern

Pattern

3-Layered Flower Brooch         

© 2016 Marie McCurry

     This was written using size 20, Lizbeth thread and DMC embroidery floss (in parenthesis).  Feel free to add decorative picots and/or beads.  This brooch also would make a great pendant, bracelet, ring or earrings.  Finished size:  1   3/8”  in diameter (size 20 thread) and 1  5/8” in diameter (DMC floss).

Materials:

2 – Colors of size 20, Lizbeth thread or DMC embroidery floss (use all 6-strands)

1 – Strand of gold or silver, metallic sewing thread (Coats & Clark or Sulky)

1 – 1” pin bar, may need a smaller on for the size 20 Lizbeth thread or tat around the pin bar.

2 – 12/0 seed beads (SB), for the pin bar (any small bead can be substituted)

6 – 2.5 mm (4mm) round beads

2 – 3 mm round beads, for the pin bar

1 – 6 mm (6mm) round bead, for the center

6 – 6 mm (8 mm) round beads

2 – Shuttles

Matching sewing thread (optional, can use the ends to sew in the beads.)

Acid-free glue

   

      All tatting will be done with one strand of metallic sewing thread and one strand of size 20 thread (DMC floss). 

Step #1:

NOTE:   This part can be tatted in three parts; the “back layer” first, then the “middle layer,” and finally the “front layer.”   For experienced tatters, you may tat the “middle” and “front layers” together.  The “back layer” is tatted in one color and the “middle” and “front layer”, in another.   If desired, all three layers can be tatted with different colors.   All layers are shuttle only.

Wind 1 – shuttle with the first color thread and the metallic thread.   

The “back layer” consists of a total of six rings:  8 – 14 – 8, joining at the picots (see diagram).  Tie the ends together.

Wind 2 – shuttle with the second color thread and the metallic thread.   This color will be used for the next layer.

     The “middle layer” consists of a total of six rings:  4 – 4 – 4 – 4, joining the first and last picots to the current rings and the middle picots to the “back layer” (*) (see diagram).  Tie the ends together.

     The “front layer” consists of a total of six rings (using the same shuttle/color):  2 – 2 – 2 – 2, joining the first and last picots to the current rings and the middle picots to the “middle layer” (*) (see diagram).  Tie the ends together.  You can hide ends now or use the ends to add the beads. 

Experience tatters may want to tat the “middle” and “front layers” all at once.   See the diagram below.  Attach the picots (*) to the joining picots of the “back layers.”   Start tatting the purple ring first, then the red ring, etc.…around (see diagram).

DMC on the left and size 20 thread on the right.

Step #2:

    If the brooch was tatted with size 20 Lizbeth thread and there isn’t a pin bar smaller than 1”, then tat around a 1” pin bar to hang the brooch from.  One or two colors may be used, with the metallic thread added.  Two small shuttles are required to tat this.  This technique would look great for small “Embellished” tatted pieces. :)

Tat the pin bar with the pin open.  Start tatting at needle end.

R1 (back ring):  2 – 7 – 2 (see diagram)

R2 (front ring):  2 + (join to the first picot of R1) 4 + (joint to the second picot of R1) 2.  Tie ends together for stability.

Note:   Tie the ends around the back of the pin bar then tie in front of the pin bar, before starting the pearl tatting.  This keeps the rings from slipping around, while trying to start the first double stitch.

Pearl tat across the bar and tie ends together in the back of the pin bar then the front of the pin bar for stability. 

R3 (front ring):  2 – 4 – 2

R4 (back ring):  2 + (join to the first picot of R3) 7 +   (joint to the second picot of R3) 2.  You can hide ends now or use the ends to add the beads.  

Click of the next part.